Iconic barbecue restaurant honored again…and again…and again in 2024

DUDLEY — On any given Wednesday, Thursday, Friday or Saturday, the parking lot at Grady’s Barbecue is packed full at lunchtime, as folks in the restaurant queue up for some serious ‘cue. But on the first Friday and Saturday of this month, the gravel lot sat eerily empty; the restaurant inside, strangely silent. This was not, however, a sign that something was wrong. In fact, quite the opposite: The restaurant shut down for two days, while owners Steve and Gerri Grady jetted off to Kansas City, Missouri, for Steve’s induction into the American Royal Barbecue Hall of Fame.

The Gradys — Gerri, 80, and Steve, 89 — are fixtures in the Dudley community, having run their much-loved restaurant since 1986. Over the years, they’ve received numerous accolades, but 2024 — well, says Gerri, “This has been our year,” noting that she and her husband were recognized by American Legion Post 103 in Mount Olive, inducted into the North Carolina Bar-B-Q Hall of Fame in March, and honored at Steve’s family reunion in August (no surprise that the two talented cooks are popular at reunions!). The pork pièce de résistance came on Nov. 2, when Steve was inducted into the American Royal Barbecue Hall of Fame in Kansas City.

According to its website, the American Royal Association is a “not-for-profit organization whose mission is to be the nation’s leader for food and agriculture education, events, and engagement.” The organization’s Barbecue Hall of Fame “aims to educate others about barbecue’s history and traditions while also honoring individuals who have made an outstanding impact on the world of barbecue.”

This year, 83 people in the barbecue industry were nominated for induction into the Hall of Fame. Four made it through the selection process and were inducted, based on, according to American Royal’s website, their “significant contributions to the barbecue community.” In addition to Grady, the inductees included: TV personality and cookbook author Danielle Bennett (also known as Diva Q) from Auburndale, Florida, who travels worldwide competing in and judging barbecue competitions; Rick Browne, also a TV personality, cookbook author, and on-behalf-of-barbecue globetrotter; and Kansas City son Ed “Fast Eddy” Maurin, who made a name for himself developing and marketing pellet-fired smoker ovens.

Additionally, this year’s ceremony included three legacy inductees, who have passed: Alabama’s “Big Bob” Gibson, Houston’s Charles Matthew “Matt” Garner, and southern California’s Joe Romero—each having made his own lasting impact in the world of barbecue.

Inclusion in this illustrious group is illustrative of just how important the Gradys are when it comes to barbecue. While they serve a variety of meats — fried chicken, barbecue chicken, hamburger steak, and (Saturdays only) barbecue turkey — it is their whole-hog, pit-cooked barbecue that has earned them a place in history. Even as more and more barbecue restaurants have switched to modern cooking methods, the Gradys have steadfastly held to their slow-smoked method, cooking over oak and hickory coals in open pits. According to American Royal’s website, “Grady’s Barbecue stands as the only Black-owned whole hog barbecue smokehouse in North Carolina.”

One of the most interesting aspects of the Gradys’ story is that they never set out to own a barbecue restaurant. Steve’s brother and sister-in-law started the business, but just one day into it, decided they didn’t want to continue — and that’s when Steve and Gerri took over. While neither had any formal culinary or restaurant training, both had plenty of know-how and practical experience, having cooked for their families and friends. During an interview last year, Steve modestly summed up the secret to their success: “I suppose it’s come down to we accidentally got it right.”

During an interview earlier this week, Steve (a humble man, who quietly expresses his preference for remaining “out of the hubbub”) and Gerri (an upbeat people-person, quick with a laugh or a smile) recounted their recent Hall of Fame experience.

They flew from the Raleigh-Durham airport to Kansas City on Friday, November 1, accompanied by 10 or so friends and family members. It was only the second time the pair had ever flown — the first time having been to New Jersey for a wedding — and this time, due to Steve’s health, they flew first class. “It was nice,” Steve recalls. “Every time they’d load up, I’d try to be the first one.”

On Saturday, they attended two events, the first being a Black Apron Ceremony, from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. Here, they were treated to a meal and had an opportunity to mingle with other Barbecue Hall of Famers. The highlight of the afternoon was the presentation to the inductees of their Black Aprons, which the American Royal Association calls the “official gear of the Barbecue Hall of Fame Member.”

“We were excited,” Gerri recalls, noting that she especially appreciated the informality of the event. “What I liked was, you didn’t have to dress up.”

Later, beginning at 7 p.m., the Gradys attended the Hall of Fame Induction Ceremony, where they received a trophy featuring a sculpted rack of ribs hoisted above metal flames that rested on a wooden base. (It was no small accomplishment that their children were able to pack this rather large, shockingly heavy, oddly shaped sculpture in their luggage for the return trip home.)

Gerri explains that due to an issue with the building where the induction ceremony was originally scheduled to take place, it had to be held outside instead. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t cooperative, but Gerri laughingly says they made the best of it. “After they presented us with the trophy, I said, ‘Are y’all through with us?’ and they said, ‘Yes,’ so we tiptoed back to the car, and let me tell you, by the time we got to the car…” And here, she raises both hands high above the table and brings them down hard, signaling that a downpour had begun.

Even the less-than-perfect weather didn’t dampen their spirits. “It was a joy,” Gerri says. “We made history. It’s a blessing. You’re doing things you don’t know. Ain’t nothing but God above that puts the experience for that to happen.”

While the Gradys’ family and friends made the most of their trip to Kansas City by doing some sightseeing, “Me and Steve stayed put; we’re old,” Gerri offers, her infectious laugh once again on display. “We stayed in the room and rested.”

She makes it a point to credit one person in particular with the recognition she and her husband have received this year: Sam Jones. Jones hails from a family that is central to the North Carolina barbecue tradition — his grandfather founded the famed Skylight Inn in Ayden, and Jones himself owns two highly successful barbecue restaurants that bear his name. The Gradys consider him a friend and someone who has championed their work.

Back home in Dudley, the Gradys are having a special case built to hold the Hall of Fame trophy, their latest — but surely not last — honor, in recognition of the iconic barbecue business they “accidently” got right.

Grady’s Barbecue is located at 3096 Arrington Bridge Road, outside Dudley. It is open Wednesday – Friday, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. The restaurant is closed during the month of January.